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Inspired by @luka I bought a Fairphone 3, stripped it of its stock android, installed TWRP, Magisk and /e/os and am now running google-less and happy.

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SoNoMu

SoNoMu (Sound Noise Music) is a mastodon instance for musicians, sound-artists, producers of any kind of aural noise, songwriters, bedroom producers, sonic manglers and algorave livecoders. -> more...